Well, I'm scheduled to head up into the Smoky's in a little less than two weeks. The dehydrator is running full time now for the next week. Squash and sweet potato drying into a powder, beans and beef jerky ready to go.
What foods do you dehydrated for backcountry trips?
Richard Flunker
The Anonymous North Carolina Hiker
Im a non North Carolina slowly turning native. Im an avid hiker turned author, writing science fiction and fantasy novels with a touch of North Carolina in them.
Monday, April 22, 2013
Thursday, April 18, 2013
A little more than just hiking...
When I first started this blog, it was soley for the purpose of writing up my hiking trips up and posting a few pictures. But its come to my realization that I could use this forum for far more.
My hiking has always lent me plenty of time with which to explore my imagination, and a few years ago I decided it was due time to settle down and write a book. I had always written in the past, either in this blog, or even further ago, in short stories for friends. In those many years I had come to realize that I had many an interesting story in my mind and that most of my friends had always enjoyed them and had always asked for more.
This past December, 2012, I finally published by first book, a zombie novel called Deadfall Survivors, which can be found on your favorite ebook vendor. It actually contains many elements of my hiking adventures within it and is based in North Carolina. Its much more about survival than zombies, but zombies are always fun.
That being said, sales have been better than I expected and work is well under way for the next book in the series. Already, as has happened many times in the past, friends have asked if I can include them in the book in one form or another, a tradition I had employed in the past. They are always minor parts but its fun to involve your fans one way or another.
If you are a fan, and have enjoyed my first book, I am now opening up this oportunity to become a living (or dead) addition to the next book. Simply send me an email, either through here or to richard.flunker@gmail.com, telling me your name, a brief description, where youre from, and a favorite part from the first book, and Ill will certainly entertain the possibility of adding you into the book.
And dont worry, there are at least four books planned for this series.
Richard Flunker
http://www.amazon.com/Deadfall-Survivors-ebook/dp/B00ASHPYEW/
My hiking has always lent me plenty of time with which to explore my imagination, and a few years ago I decided it was due time to settle down and write a book. I had always written in the past, either in this blog, or even further ago, in short stories for friends. In those many years I had come to realize that I had many an interesting story in my mind and that most of my friends had always enjoyed them and had always asked for more.
This past December, 2012, I finally published by first book, a zombie novel called Deadfall Survivors, which can be found on your favorite ebook vendor. It actually contains many elements of my hiking adventures within it and is based in North Carolina. Its much more about survival than zombies, but zombies are always fun.
That being said, sales have been better than I expected and work is well under way for the next book in the series. Already, as has happened many times in the past, friends have asked if I can include them in the book in one form or another, a tradition I had employed in the past. They are always minor parts but its fun to involve your fans one way or another.
If you are a fan, and have enjoyed my first book, I am now opening up this oportunity to become a living (or dead) addition to the next book. Simply send me an email, either through here or to richard.flunker@gmail.com, telling me your name, a brief description, where youre from, and a favorite part from the first book, and Ill will certainly entertain the possibility of adding you into the book.
And dont worry, there are at least four books planned for this series.
Richard Flunker
http://www.amazon.com/Deadfall-Survivors-ebook/dp/B00ASHPYEW/
Wednesday, October 3, 2012
Rocky Mountain National Park, August, 2012
Well, it’s been quite some time since I've posted here to the blog, for two main reasons, two reasons that tie into each
other. First, I had my fourth child born this year, in December of 2011, and
because of this first reason, I just haven’t gotten out anywhere near as often
as I’d like to. There is nothing to complain about, it’s simply the reality of
life at the moment. I was very fortunate then, when a planned family reunion
hike in the Rocky Mountains was still a possibility, even though most of the family
would not be there after all.
The main point behind the hike had been my
nephew’s, Mike, desire to go on a hike with me as he had followed along here or
on Facebook. After decisions and planning, we had decided on the Rocky Mountain
National Park. The dates didn't work for everyone, and it turned out that Mike
himself would only be able to meet up with me at the end of the week. But, it
so happens that my sister lives in Longmont, just an hour away from the park,
and had been able to get the entire week off and her daughter, Ruth, and her
(Sara, for reference) were able to join me for their first backcountry hike.
The flight out to Denver was uneventful, if
enjoyable. The layover in Atlanta was fun, basically because I enjoy large
airports. So much going on in these places that I can sit there and just
observe. Luckily, I only had to wait there two hours anyways. My sister picked
me up that evening, on Saturday the 4th of August, dropped me off at
her house with her kids, Eric and Ruth, and she headed off to her graveyard
shift. I passed out rather quickly after a long day in the air and got the rest
I would need for day one.
On a side note, the drought that has been
affecting that part of the country was painfully obvious from the air. I am
ever thankful for the constant green in my North Carolina.
Day 1 – On my own.
The plan for day one was for me to go off
and hike on my own and camp out that first night. Sara still had to work that
Sunday night and I had thought it a decent idea to get my body used to the
altitude to hopefully make the rest of the week enjoyable (or at least with
less sickness and throwing up). We drove up from Longmont into the Rockies for
the first time in 20 years. The mountains really do rise up quickly, jagged
peaks on either side constantly all the way up. The main road goes up and
through Aspen Park, which, for a reference, is the Gatlinburg of the Rockies.
It is a tourist town with the same things you see in that famous Tennessee
town, the mini golf, eateries, and other methods to relinquish your money.
We stopped by the backcountry office at the
park to get our permits and plan out our hiking trips. As opposed to the
Smokies, you have to plan your trip precisely and put in the dates into the
computer so that the number of campers and hikers are limited in each campsite.
We didn't get the trails and campsites we had hoped for, but got two decent
trips planned out, the second one essentially the same as we had initially
planned. If you really want to get the sites you want, you have to call in
months ahead of time to reserve them. After being able to just walk into the
Smokies and go wherever, this felt very restrictive, but I understood why they
did it. Sadly too though, I also paid the 20 dollar per trip fee, 40 dollars total. Wasn't too happy about that, but again, the money stays in the park, and I
usually donate anyways.
My sister drove me out to the trail head of
the area I would hike up to and camp out for the night and dropped me off
around 10:30 AM that Sunday morning. My campsite was only about 2.5 miles from
the trailhead, all uphill about 1500 feet up into 9300 feet, well past the 8000
I wanted to help acclimate. Beyond the campsite was, though, were a couple of
alpine lakes, one specifically, Lawn lake, and I had planned to head up to it
to check it out before coming back and camping for the evening.
The first .7 miles go up sharply about 1000
feet and I immediately felt the altitude, but not in any adverse way. I began
to yawn a lot. No headaches, no nausea, just constant yawning. I felt comical
almost, yawning every two minutes or so for the first hour or so of hiking up
to the campsite. My poor brain was completely confused. I was in good shape,
and not tired in the least, and yet I kept yawning as if I should be. My eyes
were wide open, yet I found myself wondering why. In the end, I was quite thankful that this was
the only thing that really happened to me, other than something else also
comical later.
View south from the campsite. |
I reached my campsite, right next to a
wonderful mountain stream. I threw up my hammock and unloaded some of my gear,
mainly the food in my bear canister (new experience for me). Didn’t like
hauling extra weight just to haul food, but the trees around were simply not
tall enough to rope up food high enough off the ground. All this to keep food
away from the 25 bears left in the park. 25 bears. The Smokies have over 300 in
a similar size area.
Dropping everything off, I then trekked the
rest of the way up to Lawn Lake. It was a nice clear day and I there were many other
people hiking up to the lake that day. I had a late lunch at the lake and then
hustled to get back to the campsite by 5 that evening. In total, I hike just
over 10.3 miles that day with no adverse affects.
Back at the campsite, I quickly found out that
I had forgotten one key tool that I would need: lighter or matches. I had
forgotten to buy some that morning on the way up. I wasn’t hungry, as I rarely
am that first day or two of hiking, but I knew I needed to put food in me, so I
settled for some breakfast bars, Oreo cookies and some powdered milk. I just
wasn’t feeling it at that point. So I took my camera and began walking around.
I walked around the trails around the campsite and nearly ran into an 8 point
buck. Also got startled by an owl simply sitting in the tree staring at me.
That night, I froze my ass off. It got down
to 45 and I had not brought my big sleeping bag, since the rest of the week was
supposed to be warmer at night, and I shivered a lot, which is fine with me.
The worst part of the night though, was something else the altitude made me do.
Pee. A lot. All night. I kept having to crawl out of my hammock (an ordeal in
itself), find a spot and pee, usually while shivering, which made things harder
even. I would have slept fine that night if only I had not had to get up every
hour or so.
Day 1 down, 5 more to go.
Day 2 – Family Reunion
Sara and Ruth would pick me up around 9 am
that morning and we would head off to do the rest of our hike. I got up at 7,
and not surprisingly, had no urge to pee. I quickly ate nothing, as I had
nothing worth eating that didn't require heat, and headed down the trail. It
was nice and cool and I was down in an hour, with plenty of time to sit around
and watch the people that were starting their day hike up to Lawn Lake. Sara
was there shortly after nine and we began the drive up and over to the western
side of the park where our other trails were. Thankfully, Sara had brought
along lighters and even more so for me, a pair of donuts that I gobbled down.
The drive up and over is a popular drive,
and for a good reason. You go from 7000 feet up to 12000 feet and the views are
awesome. Not many animal viewings that time, except for a few elk. Once down on
the other side, we found our trail head, packed up, and headed out. I brought
along a bit of extra padding to put in the hammock for warmth at night, and a
lighter.
We began up the trail, Tonahutu Trail, and
quickly were overwhelmed by the not so pleasant smell of horse poop. By the
third mile, I was complaining rather loudly about the smell in more vulgar
terms. We ran across several of the guilty animals, and the guilty riders. One
of them even had the audacity to offer me a ride.
Horse poop aside, the scenery quickly faded
from the trail head and the busy trail into a quit trail that routinely opened
up into valley meadows. We would hike through the trail and suddenly be right
next to a meadow, a stream running through it. I stopped many times to take
pictures, thinking each one was the last time I would see such a vision. It
would only get better.
Just one of many meadows. |
After about three miles, it became apparent
that both Sara and Ruth had plenty of adjusting to do. This was their first
time out in any kind of backcountry setting, and hauling all that weight takes
some time to get used to, not only just for the weight, but for how everything
fits on the pack. Things kept shifting and that wears a hiker out faster than
the actual hike. Our campsite goal was still 5 miles away, and if we kept on
the trail, we would have to hike a strenuous 10 mile hike up and over a peak to
reach our next campsite. My sister and niece though, needed another day of
simple hiking to get their packs how they wanted and I predicted that a tough
hike the very next day wouldn't be a good idea. So we planned to stop at the
next campsite, rest, repack, and take a different trail to our site the next
day. That change of plans would prove to be one of the best things to happen on
the trip.
View from campsite Paintbrush. |
The campsite was called Paintbrush. The
site veered off the main trail through a patch of downed trees into a small
rising about 15 feet above a very large meadow. It had a wonderfully nice large
area to put a tent down and perfect tree spacing for my hammock. The view of
the meadow was amazing. Just as we got there, it began to rain, so we threw our
rain gear on and sat down and talked. That night we cooked food, and despite
still not being hungry, I had barely eaten since the previous day, so I crammed
some food down, crawled into the hammock, hoped I wouldn't have to pee so much
this night, and fell asleep to the sound of a thunderstorm pelting our hammock
/ tent.
Day 3 – Best Hiking Day, EVAR!
Sara and Ruth. |
I woke up Tuesday morning at around 5:15 AM,
having slept much better, without the constant desire to pee and much warmer
after reorganizing how I bundled up. I did though, wake up with a pretty bad
headache, probably due to the fact that I had barely eaten in two days. I got
up, took some advil, converted my hammock from sleeping to sitting, and sat
there. I had the hammock set up at the very edge of our campsite with a perfect
view of the meadow, which this early morning was heavily shrouded in fog. It
was an amazing sight, one which I kill myself for not taking a picture of, but
that morning, with my head, I just sat there and relaxed. Then, in the
distance, I began to hear some honking and from the fog began to emerge a whole
herd of elk, at the river, drinking. Along the northern edge of the meadow, one
of the elk was running along the tree line honking. As the fog began to lift
around 7, Sara and Ruth began to stir in their tents, aching and sore from
their first day of hiking and the elk vanished along with the fog.
After breakfast, where I ate heartily, the
plan was, instead of attempting to go up and over a peak, we would double back
the three miles, and take a 7 mile trail up a different side of the mountain to
the campsite we were set to be in that night. We were off by 8 AM, having
repack and reshifted some of our gear. Once back and the trail head, the girls
dropped a few things at the truck, and we headed up the secondary trail, called
the North Inlet Trail. It was 7.7 miles, all uphill, but rarely very steep. I
felt really good and set myself at a rather fast pace, usually leaving the
girls behind. Id stop every mile and wait for the girls while taking pictures.
Careful... |
In our very first mile, we nearly stumbled
into three male moose, just 10 feet off the trail. We stopped for a while to
make sure they weren't ornery, and thankfully, they were just interested in
relaxing at the edge of a meadow. I took my pictures and went ahead and was
later informed by Sara that I had walked right past a mother moose and her
calf. That might have gotten messy.
The trail continued up the valley,
following a stream that routinely broke out into meadows, then back into narrow
valleys with many waterfalls. One big difference between my Smokies and the
Rockies, other than the age and the height, the trees are spaced further apart
and there is far less under vegetation, so one actually gets to view further
into the distance. The trail was very rocky, many times being literally cut out
of the mountain side. I even came across a group of 8 rangers working on a
section of the trail, cutting rock blocks out of the mountain and moving them
over with a series of pullies and cables to set them down as stairs. It was
amazing work, hard, yet so simple and effective. I talked to them for 30
minutes right up to the point they offered to let me help them. I laughed, in a
non offensive way, and kept going.
There were a few campsites along the way,
and I always had to keep in mind that the girls were only on their second day,
and going uphill. They were going at their own pace, but it was still a good
steady pace, about 2 miles an hour. I was going at about 3.5 miles an hour,
uphill, and I must say, I was impressed with myself. It gave me plenty of time
to scout ahead, and bushwhack a bit to take pictures while waiting for the women
each mile. At each campsite, Id let the women decide if we wanted to stop short.
We really wanted to get to the campsite for one main reason, it was one of the
very few campsites where campfires were actually allowed in the whole park. It
took us a while to get there, but it was worth it.
Campsite Porcupine was delightful. It was
off the trail on the other side of the stream that we were following up, built
rather steeply into the hill, but with enough space to set up a couple of tents
and good spacing for the hammock. The stream was just below us and the view was
great. To our delight, there was a rather large pile of wood just ready for us.
We were exhausted, dusty and hungry and the temp was quickly dropping. We were
at about 10100 feet and it was going to be a lot chillier that night. Within
minutes though, I had the fire going and we sat around the log benches that
were there, ate food and laughed at our soreness. I was even able to make my
quiet niece laugh, although it required good ol campground humor: farting.
We settled in for the night and slept good,
if a bit chilly, but good for the evening.
Day 4 – Lakes on the top of the world.
Porcupine. |
We were scheduled to stay at Porcupine
campsite for two nights in a row, so we decided to explore the area that day. I
was on my fourth day, and was hoping to wash up in the stream, and was hoping for
a “warmer” afternoon to have the courage to do so. We began though, by heading
out to take a side trail that led up to two lakes Nokoni and Nanita, both above
11000 feet. About two miles up, I realized that it was about to get steep and
that we wouldn’t be back till after five, well past any chance to clean up
without freezing in the river, so I doubled back and went back to camp. The
women went on without me and experienced complete silence at lake Nokoni.
I on the other hand, experienced a lack of
clothing within a very very cold river. I was able to clean up, wash my clothes
and soak up some sun while laying on what appeared to have been a previous half
log bridge that had washed out at some point. I then did some of my own
exploring around the area, finding a really nice waterfall nearby, North Inlet
falls, the trail’s namesake. That evening we ate well and used up the rest of
the wood. We headed to bed early because it was our plan to hike out really
early the next morning to make it back to a small town at the bottom of the
trail, near where the trail head was. I was hoping to get there before
breakfast, and they wanted lunch.
North Inlet Falls. |
Day 5 – Breakfast and another family
reunion.
I was up around 6, and after a quick snack
of oatmeal, I was packed up and off onto the trail by 7 am. I came across
another moose resting near a small pond in a meadow and another deer eating
across the trail. Going downhill now, I was making amazing time and covered the
7.7 miles to the trail head in just under two hours. At about 5 miles away
though, I began to run into people heading up to some of the waterfalls on the
trail. That wasn’t what shocked me, but the fact that these people were in flip
flops or sandals, most of them without any water at all, dressed in jeans and
midriffs. This is the kind of thing that I would see right off the car in short
trails, but this far up I was a bit shocked. I think they were going to be
shocked by thirst and blisters after the end of their day.
I made it back into the town, Grand Lake,
and headed into town to find somewhere to eat. I found a little restaurant
serving breakfast on its small main street, and ordered myself a rather large
amount of food. Even the waitress asked me a couple of times if I was really
ordering all the food. After that banquet, I walked down to the lake that gave
the town its name, pulled out my Kindle, and settled down to read for a while
waiting for the women to arrive. They did get into town around 11 am, had their
lunch, and we were off in the truck back to the other side of the park. Our
older brother and his family were going to be getting into Aspen Park later
that afternoon and we were going to meet up with them.
We met them and actually got a room with
them at the same hotel they were in. We planned to head out to the Bear Lake
area the next morning, but because they were doing road work, we could only get
in before 8 am, so we headed to bed early.
Day 6 – Glacier Water.
Nymph Lake. |
I had hoped to achieve two goals on this
trip, reach a peak (13k feet or more) and drink glacier water. I missed the
peak, but was really hoping for the glacier water. From Bear Lake, it was about
6 miles up, 10 miles loop trip, to Andrews Glacier. Sara was joined by her
younger son Eric and they and my brothers family would hike up the lakes that
led up to the glacier, and head back when they felt they should. I told them I
would meet them back by 4pm.
So I bolted off at my pace and stopped at
the first lake on the way up, of which there were many. When I stopped to take
some pictures, I noticed that my nephew Mike had actually kept up with me and
was planning on going all the way to the top with me. It was great to catch up
with him and after the third lake, where we stopped for a while to snack and
talk, the rest of the group caught up and my brother Tim also decided to head
on up to the top with us.
Up to Loch Lake. |
We passed Nymph lake, then Dream lake and
reached Haiyaha. These alpine lakes are frigid and crystal clear, and the
further we went up, the less people we ran into. The silence over the mirrored
water was wonderful. We came down a bit from Haiyaha then took another trail up
to Loch Lake, a lake that spilled as a waterfall and we hiked up all the way up
beside this waterfall. The lake was larger than the others and crystal clear.
We stopped and ate some lunch there before heading up even further.
The trail got smaller and thinner the
higher we got, and it branched off into an even small barely maintained trail that
led to the glacier. After about half a mile of scrambling up over trees and
boulders, we entered into the glacier’s spill area, a huge boulder laden valley
at the top of the mountain. The trail essentially ceased to exist and we were
crawling over large eroded boulders, navigating our way to the top .We finally
stopped short of the very top of what we assumed was the trail, and found an
area where a small stream was pouring off through high mountain grass, just
below a portion of the glacier.
Almost there... |
We stopped there, exhausted, but with an
amazing few. I broke out the filter, filled it up, and we filled up our
bladders and had some amazingly cool and crisp glacier water, just like I had
hoped. I even broke out the pipe and enjoyed some good Virginia Black at the
top of the world. It was a very fitting climax to the trip.
View from the glacier. |
We headed back down starting around 1 pm,
hoping to get out of the peaks and the possible thunderstorm that was coming.
Downhill is always easier, but we, especially my novice (out of shape) hikers
were beginning to feel it. By the time we made it back to the parking lot, my
older brother was at the end of the hike, but we and Mike both made it and I
can honestly say that I was extremely happy that they had both come with me.
Our family is spread out all over the states, and so don’t get together as
much, but when we do, it’s always great fun.
We headed back into Longmont where I bade
my sister and niece goodbye. I think I got Sara hooked on backcountry hiking.
Tim. |
Day 7 – Back home
I spent the night with Tim and his family
at their hotel and they took me to the airport the next morning. I did have my
camping spoon confiscated by the airport security people, acceptable loss, if
not funny.
The flight home was simple, without
incident and I was home a little after midnight that night.
Mike, on the way back down. |
Once again, exact plans for this trip fell
apart, but yet again, the experience was amazing. I really miss the heavy dense
vegetation of my Smokies, but the Rockies were quite enjoyable. It was nice to
have clothes actually dry off after washing them. There are far more
restrictions in the Rocky Mountain National Park, things that made my general
hiking trip annoying, but its understandable when I saw the way people were on
the trails, barely prepared.
My sister and I have pledged to try again
in 10 years, and reach the top of a peak that time around. Despite living only
one hour away from the park, this was the first time she had ever gone, but I
think I have her hooked.
I was pleased that I didn't suffer from any
altitude issues, other than the yawning and peeing, and was especially happy
with my hiking pace and distances I was able to cover without falling apart. I
tried some new food ideas and some were failures but others were great
successes. Olive oil is hiking liquid gold. I also figured out good thresholds for staying warm and just what to use at certain temperatures. Its always tricky in the hammock because wind can really change the game, but it helped. I am also completely in love with my boots. At no time, in that rough terrain, did I ever feel pain, get blisters, twist an ankle, or have any discomfort at all.
I am looking forward to returning to my Smokies, but I will certainly love to revisit the Rockies in the future.
Happy Hiking.
Thursday, March 8, 2012
Great hiking link
This is a very cool link that was passed on to me by a fellow hiker.
Talk about previewing a hike in detail...
http://www.naturevalleytrailview.com/
Happy Hiking...
Talk about previewing a hike in detail...
http://www.naturevalleytrailview.com/
Happy Hiking...
Saturday, November 19, 2011
Cold Mountain and the Shining Rock Wilderness Area
Every year, I try to make at least 3 major hikes. One in the spring, because I enjoy the new greenness while still enjoying the brisk evenings, one with an old friend of mine, because we just love talking about everything and anything, and one in late October, because you still get color in the lower altitudes, but the peaks have dropped all or most of their leaves, and the views are amazing, when they are otherwise hard to see in the summer.
This year, I was able to drag along two friends with me, one who had never hiked backcountry in quite some time and one that had never hiked backcountry at all. I wanted a decent challenge for myself, a peak with views, a good taste of backcountry hiking for my friends and someplace completely new to me. After some researching, I finally decided on the Shining Rock Wilderness area with its famous peak, Cold Mountain. This area of the Blue Ridge Mountains has great views plus some reasonably high peaks for the area. The challenge was the unmarked trails and having to rely on maps, compass and my smart phone (yeah, not a wild stretch). The peak was obviously Cold Mountain, the Art Loeb trail would provide a wonderful up and down trail over balds on the way to the mountain and I had never visited this area at all, despite having heard plenty about it.
Our trip began on Wednesday evening, as I rocketed through Coats, NC to pick up Thomas, then a quick shuttle to Raleigh to pick up Mike and then heading out towards Asheville where we would crash that night right at the exit on the eastern side of Asheville next to the Blue Ridge Parkway. We learned all about Thomas’ problems, probably more than he intended to talk about, but he just kept on talking and talking (this is a recurring theme on this trip). Thursday morning, we got on the Blue Ridge Parkway
and headed up the mountains through countless tunnels up past Mount Pisgah and that homely inn up there I had never noticed before (marked for future checking out). A few miles past Wagon Gap, we came across the turn off for Black Balsam Knob and the Art Loeb trail. Parking at the trail head, we picked up the Iverson Gap trail, a trail that paralleled the Art Loeb trail along the western side of the mountains.
It was a far flatter trail that allowed us to get used to our packs. It routinely intersected with the Art Loeb trail that was going up the tops of the balds in the direction Cold Mountain. It probably functions as a really good service road for rangers if needed. We followed that trail for about 4 miles. It intersected the Art Loeb one more time before it turned into a nice narrow trail following the side of the mountain. The view towards the west was amazing. In lower levels, the color was vivid. The ultra clear sky (this was gonna change) allowed us to see far beyond the initial mountains in front of us. The temperature was a wonderful 60, allowing for the best hike I had had in a long time. We took a time, in the section of the Iverson Gap trail that narrowed to sit down for a bit, take pictures, talk, snack and it was so relaxing we all nearly fell asleep. Of course, we were then attacked by a bumble bee (another theme, attacks by wild animals). It never bothered me but it kept going back and forth between Thomas and Mike. Continuing our hike, we reached the end of the Iverson Gap trail, ending at the Art Loeb trail once again.
This intersection at Flower Gap had what appeared to be nearly seven trails coming in and out of that little area. This area was also a well used campsite. It was just underneath shining rock and seeing that it was nearly lunch, we hiked the short yet very tight and cramped trail up the Shining Rock. At this point, the brush around the trail was extremely thick. My pack was packed rather high and kept getting caught in the branches above me. I had to nearly crawl many times. Shining Rock was a great climb though, and once again, the views did not disappoint. We had our lunch here and enjoyed the view, and the quickly changing weather. Clouds came up and over us and the sun vanished into gray skies. We knew we’d want to get as close to Cold Mountain as we could because there were calls for rain the next day. After cleaning up our lunch we hit the trail. This is where the fun began.
The trail got incredibly thin, although still very clear. The brush was thick and sharp and I have several scratches and rips on my pants. At one point, the brush got caught on a zipper, opened a small pocket and stuff spilled out. The trail continued though, opening up over the top of a few balds to allow for great views. Then, as we started down the second bald, the trail vanished, just stopped. There simply was no clear path onwards. Our backcountry experience became something else. I fired up the smart phone to see just where we were and tried unsuccessfully to find the trail. At one point, with the brush being so thick, Mike and I stood up on some rock formations we had found and let Thomas walk around the brush with his hiking stick held high to see if we could find the trail. We didn't. I fired up the smart phone again after about 2 hours of hunting for the trail and began to hack our way through the brush just following the map. We came upon a very clear campsite but no clear trail off after this. Once again, we began going through the thick brush in the direction of the trail marked on my phone. At one point, we were nearly scuttling along on our stomachs through the thick brush. Then, we heard it. At least Thomas and I did. A low growl. We both looked at each other and I said “its time to go back”. We high tailed it out of there back to that campsite we had found earlier.
(Edit 11/21/2011. Look below in the comments for a website that shows how to find the trail.)
We debated staying there and going on the next day, as it was already almost 5, but after looking around, we could find no water source. So we hiked out of there back to the campsite at the end of the Iverson Gap trail at Flower Gap. There was a stream nearby and a really good covered area with plenty of space to camp. We were quite disappointed. We were still a good 4 miles from Cold Mountain with no idea where that trail was, a day of rain on the way and time running out. We were scratched up, sore and beat up. We camped, set up our tents and hammocks, ate some good hot food and sat around to enjoy the darkening skies, smoke our pipes and enjoy the talks. That is, of course, till we were attacked by wild forest creatures (a mouse). It attacked Mike first, attempted to bite off his entire hand (it walked over its hand), then a few minutes later, it came bounding at me trying to cut my jugular (it jumped towards where I was sitting). We were terrified, debated setting up traps to capture this monstrosity, but settled with just going to bed.
The next morning greeted us with a strong fog. I was able to pull a smidge of reception to see that the radar was bringing rain. We decided to hike on out of there back to the car, regroup, and find another way up to Cold Mountain. We packed up quickly and this time took the Art Loeb trail back towards the car. Unfortunately, there would be no views this day. The fog gave us possibly ten feet of visibility, making for an eerie hike through the balds. On the top of each bald, the trail got tricky. Was it the trail or a washed out section? You could never know. After the second bald, the rain began picking up. Even with rain gear on, you got cold and wet and hypothermia was an instant concern. I kept the guys going and we decided to forfeit the last section of the Art Loeb and just take the quick Iverson Gap trail back to the car.
Just as we got on that trail, the wind and rain came in a fury. All I could do was put my head down and keep walking. Thankfully, at this point, the path was nice and wide, so I just looked down and kept on going. After a few miles, the rain stopped long enough for me to get out some dry clothes, change my shirt and at least get some dry clothes underneath it all. My pants were ultra water resistant, but I was sweating so much that it was chilling me there anyways. We met a pair of older hikers who were, in their own words “out here just screwing around”. They picked an awful day to do that. We made it back to the car just as the rain was really coming down even harder. We crawled into the car, cranked the heat and headed back down into Asheville.
After a bit of research, I found another way up to Cold Mountain that we could do in one day. We camped out at a Comfort Inn, dried all of our gear, ate Mexican….and then ordered a pizza and got ready for the next day.
That Saturday, we headed out towards the Daniel Boone Boy Scout camp just underneath Cold Mountain. The Art Loeb trail ends (or begins) there and goes up to the ridge that leads up to Cold Mountain. It was a very brisk (freezing) morning, ice on everything, clouds over everything. We were determined to get up to the top to at least say that we did. We did ditch a lot of our gear and only took essentials, water, snack, camera and a lunch, cold and rain gear, and off we went.
The way up can be divided into three segments. The first segment is the initial climb from the camp. It goes up very quickly over very rocky terrain. The climb did warm us up quickly though and we were out of the wind. The trail continued like this for about one mile, going up steeply as we gained about 2000 feet. Then, we went around one bend and the mountain was in view, albeit covered in clouds. And then the wind hit us.
This was the cold side of the mountain. The wind hit us with ice. Granted that it was cold, ice at least bounces off rain gear and doesn’t get anything wet. We got our gloves on and kept going. The trail was very rocky, and covered by leaves to hide those slippery rocks, but there was no hiding where the trail was here. This segment continued for about two miles, sometimes picking up what appeared to be really old roads no longer used and at times getting very thin, mountain on one side, a good fall on the other. We did find a good stream where we refilled and knew wed have water on the way down.
We ran into a couple that was on their way down who were woefully underdressed. She had his gloves on and tights and they both were red and looked miserable. We traded quick stories but they clearly wanted to get out of there as quickly as possible.
We took the Art Loeb trail up to a ridge that is next to Cold Mountain and met another group there, these dressed for the weather. They had spent the night up on Cold Mountain (we were jealous) but it had been a cold one and they had no views as the peak was still covered in clouds. At this point we got off the Art Loeb and took the Cold Mountain trail. The trail was covered in ice, but the views began to open up. We could easily see the peak from the trail now, as the sun was now shining clearly and the clouds were gone. We were estatic; we were a mile away and we were going to get our views. We took a quick break to snack up and Thomas continued telling us all about himself (this had gone on pretty much non-stop all the way up so far).
The last final mile up to the top followed the southern side of the mountain up around the west, but when it reached the northern side and we followed the ridge up the top, we were attacked by wind and ice. It was bitter on the northern side, but when the trail dipped into the southern side, the sun warmed us up quickly. The views opened up routinely, with amazing views in every direction. We followed the thin trail all the way up to the geological marker and found an amazing view point facing south (and in the warm side).
The view was great. I can really only let the pictures do the talking.
We stayed up there for about 30 minutes, just talking, enjoying, and smoking pipes. Mike let us know that he did have a heights issue and Thomas broke out the camera and went crazy. The pictures of the views from up here are all his. We had seen a very small stream and some wonderful rocks to sit on just on the southern side of the mountain on the way up, and Mike and I headed back down to cook up some rice to eat there before we headed back down. Thomas stayed behind a bit to take more pictures.
The way down was eventful because we ran into many people that were on their way up to camp at the top. Then, the final animal attack. A bear. Yes, a bear. Well no, it was actually a really big fluffy dog that really looked like a bear coming around the trail for a split moment. My breath was certainly taken away for a few moments until I realized that this “bear” was wearing a collar and carrying a pack of his own. We joked with his owners for a bit. We encountered another couple headed up. I envied their night on the peak and the possible clear sky view of Asheville and our universe.
The race was on to get to the bottom. We didn’t have much time left with sun light left so we upped the speed a bit, all the time staying careful of slippery rocks. Going downhill is no fun when you have to watch every single step you take. I managed to slip on one and really scrape up my shin and Mike nearly went off the edge once when he stepped on a false pile of leaves (there was nothing underneath). (Michelle, I debated putting this in lest you not allow your husband to do this again with me). About 40 minutes from the bottom, the sun dipped down behind the mountains in front of us. We had about that much time left. Thomas also suddenly was very quiet. I took one look at him and could tell that he wasn’t doing well at all. From that point on, no one said a thing until we could smell people cooking down below us and we could hear kids. We made it back down in time, crawled into the car, Thomas holding on to his stomach contents the entire time.
Once on the road, we commiserated on the whole trip, the wonderful first day, the misery of losing the trail, the rain and wind, but the amazing hike up to the peak and the wonderful views. We stopped at a Crackel Barrel (my official post hike restaurant of choice) and we destroyed a large meal each. We then decided to actually go home that night, with my final destination in Fayetteville being reached at 2 AM.
The trip was an amazing one. I’ve had many difficulties in trips before, but never with others with me. I was truly disappointed in not being able to find that trail and have already vowed to return there and complete that trail in its entirety. Cold Mountain of course, was a special treat. The hike was challenging, yet very rewarding. The views were amazing. I was disappointed that I didn’t find Nicole Kidman, but I am overall very satisfied.
And now, I await the spring. Next year I have trips planned in the Rockies, the Clingman’s dome from Deep Creek campground, Mt Mitchell from the very bottom, and some section of the AT I have yet to plan. I hope Mike and Thomas enjoyed themselves and are willing to go with me again.
The winter comes, and Id love to do snow hike, but, my wife is due any day now, and I believe I will stay home this winter and enjoy the addition of a new hiker to my family.
This year, I was able to drag along two friends with me, one who had never hiked backcountry in quite some time and one that had never hiked backcountry at all. I wanted a decent challenge for myself, a peak with views, a good taste of backcountry hiking for my friends and someplace completely new to me. After some researching, I finally decided on the Shining Rock Wilderness area with its famous peak, Cold Mountain. This area of the Blue Ridge Mountains has great views plus some reasonably high peaks for the area. The challenge was the unmarked trails and having to rely on maps, compass and my smart phone (yeah, not a wild stretch). The peak was obviously Cold Mountain, the Art Loeb trail would provide a wonderful up and down trail over balds on the way to the mountain and I had never visited this area at all, despite having heard plenty about it.
Our trip began on Wednesday evening, as I rocketed through Coats, NC to pick up Thomas, then a quick shuttle to Raleigh to pick up Mike and then heading out towards Asheville where we would crash that night right at the exit on the eastern side of Asheville next to the Blue Ridge Parkway. We learned all about Thomas’ problems, probably more than he intended to talk about, but he just kept on talking and talking (this is a recurring theme on this trip). Thursday morning, we got on the Blue Ridge Parkway
It was a far flatter trail that allowed us to get used to our packs. It routinely intersected with the Art Loeb trail that was going up the tops of the balds in the direction Cold Mountain. It probably functions as a really good service road for rangers if needed. We followed that trail for about 4 miles. It intersected the Art Loeb one more time before it turned into a nice narrow trail following the side of the mountain. The view towards the west was amazing. In lower levels, the color was vivid. The ultra clear sky (this was gonna change) allowed us to see far beyond the initial mountains in front of us. The temperature was a wonderful 60, allowing for the best hike I had had in a long time. We took a time, in the section of the Iverson Gap trail that narrowed to sit down for a bit, take pictures, talk, snack and it was so relaxing we all nearly fell asleep. Of course, we were then attacked by a bumble bee (another theme, attacks by wild animals). It never bothered me but it kept going back and forth between Thomas and Mike. Continuing our hike, we reached the end of the Iverson Gap trail, ending at the Art Loeb trail once again.
This intersection at Flower Gap had what appeared to be nearly seven trails coming in and out of that little area. This area was also a well used campsite. It was just underneath shining rock and seeing that it was nearly lunch, we hiked the short yet very tight and cramped trail up the Shining Rock. At this point, the brush around the trail was extremely thick. My pack was packed rather high and kept getting caught in the branches above me. I had to nearly crawl many times. Shining Rock was a great climb though, and once again, the views did not disappoint. We had our lunch here and enjoyed the view, and the quickly changing weather. Clouds came up and over us and the sun vanished into gray skies. We knew we’d want to get as close to Cold Mountain as we could because there were calls for rain the next day. After cleaning up our lunch we hit the trail. This is where the fun began.
The trail got incredibly thin, although still very clear. The brush was thick and sharp and I have several scratches and rips on my pants. At one point, the brush got caught on a zipper, opened a small pocket and stuff spilled out. The trail continued though, opening up over the top of a few balds to allow for great views. Then, as we started down the second bald, the trail vanished, just stopped. There simply was no clear path onwards. Our backcountry experience became something else. I fired up the smart phone to see just where we were and tried unsuccessfully to find the trail. At one point, with the brush being so thick, Mike and I stood up on some rock formations we had found and let Thomas walk around the brush with his hiking stick held high to see if we could find the trail. We didn't. I fired up the smart phone again after about 2 hours of hunting for the trail and began to hack our way through the brush just following the map. We came upon a very clear campsite but no clear trail off after this. Once again, we began going through the thick brush in the direction of the trail marked on my phone. At one point, we were nearly scuttling along on our stomachs through the thick brush. Then, we heard it. At least Thomas and I did. A low growl. We both looked at each other and I said “its time to go back”. We high tailed it out of there back to that campsite we had found earlier.
(Edit 11/21/2011. Look below in the comments for a website that shows how to find the trail.)
We debated staying there and going on the next day, as it was already almost 5, but after looking around, we could find no water source. So we hiked out of there back to the campsite at the end of the Iverson Gap trail at Flower Gap. There was a stream nearby and a really good covered area with plenty of space to camp. We were quite disappointed. We were still a good 4 miles from Cold Mountain with no idea where that trail was, a day of rain on the way and time running out. We were scratched up, sore and beat up. We camped, set up our tents and hammocks, ate some good hot food and sat around to enjoy the darkening skies, smoke our pipes and enjoy the talks. That is, of course, till we were attacked by wild forest creatures (a mouse). It attacked Mike first, attempted to bite off his entire hand (it walked over its hand), then a few minutes later, it came bounding at me trying to cut my jugular (it jumped towards where I was sitting). We were terrified, debated setting up traps to capture this monstrosity, but settled with just going to bed.
The next morning greeted us with a strong fog. I was able to pull a smidge of reception to see that the radar was bringing rain. We decided to hike on out of there back to the car, regroup, and find another way up to Cold Mountain. We packed up quickly and this time took the Art Loeb trail back towards the car. Unfortunately, there would be no views this day. The fog gave us possibly ten feet of visibility, making for an eerie hike through the balds. On the top of each bald, the trail got tricky. Was it the trail or a washed out section? You could never know. After the second bald, the rain began picking up. Even with rain gear on, you got cold and wet and hypothermia was an instant concern. I kept the guys going and we decided to forfeit the last section of the Art Loeb and just take the quick Iverson Gap trail back to the car.
Just as we got on that trail, the wind and rain came in a fury. All I could do was put my head down and keep walking. Thankfully, at this point, the path was nice and wide, so I just looked down and kept on going. After a few miles, the rain stopped long enough for me to get out some dry clothes, change my shirt and at least get some dry clothes underneath it all. My pants were ultra water resistant, but I was sweating so much that it was chilling me there anyways. We met a pair of older hikers who were, in their own words “out here just screwing around”. They picked an awful day to do that. We made it back to the car just as the rain was really coming down even harder. We crawled into the car, cranked the heat and headed back down into Asheville.
After a bit of research, I found another way up to Cold Mountain that we could do in one day. We camped out at a Comfort Inn, dried all of our gear, ate Mexican….and then ordered a pizza and got ready for the next day.
That Saturday, we headed out towards the Daniel Boone Boy Scout camp just underneath Cold Mountain. The Art Loeb trail ends (or begins) there and goes up to the ridge that leads up to Cold Mountain. It was a very brisk (freezing) morning, ice on everything, clouds over everything. We were determined to get up to the top to at least say that we did. We did ditch a lot of our gear and only took essentials, water, snack, camera and a lunch, cold and rain gear, and off we went.
The way up can be divided into three segments. The first segment is the initial climb from the camp. It goes up very quickly over very rocky terrain. The climb did warm us up quickly though and we were out of the wind. The trail continued like this for about one mile, going up steeply as we gained about 2000 feet. Then, we went around one bend and the mountain was in view, albeit covered in clouds. And then the wind hit us.
This was the cold side of the mountain. The wind hit us with ice. Granted that it was cold, ice at least bounces off rain gear and doesn’t get anything wet. We got our gloves on and kept going. The trail was very rocky, and covered by leaves to hide those slippery rocks, but there was no hiding where the trail was here. This segment continued for about two miles, sometimes picking up what appeared to be really old roads no longer used and at times getting very thin, mountain on one side, a good fall on the other. We did find a good stream where we refilled and knew wed have water on the way down.
We ran into a couple that was on their way down who were woefully underdressed. She had his gloves on and tights and they both were red and looked miserable. We traded quick stories but they clearly wanted to get out of there as quickly as possible.
We took the Art Loeb trail up to a ridge that is next to Cold Mountain and met another group there, these dressed for the weather. They had spent the night up on Cold Mountain (we were jealous) but it had been a cold one and they had no views as the peak was still covered in clouds. At this point we got off the Art Loeb and took the Cold Mountain trail. The trail was covered in ice, but the views began to open up. We could easily see the peak from the trail now, as the sun was now shining clearly and the clouds were gone. We were estatic; we were a mile away and we were going to get our views. We took a quick break to snack up and Thomas continued telling us all about himself (this had gone on pretty much non-stop all the way up so far).
The last final mile up to the top followed the southern side of the mountain up around the west, but when it reached the northern side and we followed the ridge up the top, we were attacked by wind and ice. It was bitter on the northern side, but when the trail dipped into the southern side, the sun warmed us up quickly. The views opened up routinely, with amazing views in every direction. We followed the thin trail all the way up to the geological marker and found an amazing view point facing south (and in the warm side).
The view was great. I can really only let the pictures do the talking.
We stayed up there for about 30 minutes, just talking, enjoying, and smoking pipes. Mike let us know that he did have a heights issue and Thomas broke out the camera and went crazy. The pictures of the views from up here are all his. We had seen a very small stream and some wonderful rocks to sit on just on the southern side of the mountain on the way up, and Mike and I headed back down to cook up some rice to eat there before we headed back down. Thomas stayed behind a bit to take more pictures.
The way down was eventful because we ran into many people that were on their way up to camp at the top. Then, the final animal attack. A bear. Yes, a bear. Well no, it was actually a really big fluffy dog that really looked like a bear coming around the trail for a split moment. My breath was certainly taken away for a few moments until I realized that this “bear” was wearing a collar and carrying a pack of his own. We joked with his owners for a bit. We encountered another couple headed up. I envied their night on the peak and the possible clear sky view of Asheville and our universe.
The race was on to get to the bottom. We didn’t have much time left with sun light left so we upped the speed a bit, all the time staying careful of slippery rocks. Going downhill is no fun when you have to watch every single step you take. I managed to slip on one and really scrape up my shin and Mike nearly went off the edge once when he stepped on a false pile of leaves (there was nothing underneath). (Michelle, I debated putting this in lest you not allow your husband to do this again with me). About 40 minutes from the bottom, the sun dipped down behind the mountains in front of us. We had about that much time left. Thomas also suddenly was very quiet. I took one look at him and could tell that he wasn’t doing well at all. From that point on, no one said a thing until we could smell people cooking down below us and we could hear kids. We made it back down in time, crawled into the car, Thomas holding on to his stomach contents the entire time.
Once on the road, we commiserated on the whole trip, the wonderful first day, the misery of losing the trail, the rain and wind, but the amazing hike up to the peak and the wonderful views. We stopped at a Crackel Barrel (my official post hike restaurant of choice) and we destroyed a large meal each. We then decided to actually go home that night, with my final destination in Fayetteville being reached at 2 AM.
The trip was an amazing one. I’ve had many difficulties in trips before, but never with others with me. I was truly disappointed in not being able to find that trail and have already vowed to return there and complete that trail in its entirety. Cold Mountain of course, was a special treat. The hike was challenging, yet very rewarding. The views were amazing. I was disappointed that I didn’t find Nicole Kidman, but I am overall very satisfied.
And now, I await the spring. Next year I have trips planned in the Rockies, the Clingman’s dome from Deep Creek campground, Mt Mitchell from the very bottom, and some section of the AT I have yet to plan. I hope Mike and Thomas enjoyed themselves and are willing to go with me again.
The winter comes, and Id love to do snow hike, but, my wife is due any day now, and I believe I will stay home this winter and enjoy the addition of a new hiker to my family.
Cheers for 2011 and happy hiking in 2012.
That's me, if anyone is curious. |
Mike |
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